It sounds too good to be true: A $35 three-course prix fixe menu, made with expertly sourced ingredients, created and served by a staff with experience at Michelin-starred and top-rated restaurants, and a selection of boutique wines at fair prices.
In fact, this unlikely scenario, called Trestle, will open soon—maybe late next week, but definitely this month—at an even more unlikely location: 531 Jackson St. on the corner of Columbus Avenue, at the intersection of the FiDi, Jackson Square, Chinatown and North Beach. The area's not known for its bargains, unless you're willing to settle for factory meats and pre-packaged foodstuffs.
The partners behind Trestle—Ryan Cole, chef Jason Halverson, Jason Kirmse, Cyrick Hia and Tai Ricci—also own Stones Throw on Russian Hill and Fat Angel in the Fillmore, which are also value-oriented without sacrificing quality. They all have credentials at places such as Michael Mina, A16, SPQR and Los Angeles' Katsuya.
Cole said they take workaday ingredients and seasonal items and "make them shine"—things like stuffed quail, a "crazy version of meatloaf," short ribs and ocean trout. Every night will feature a choice of two first courses such as a soup, salad or appetizer, two main courses and two desserts. Right now, they plan only dinner service seven nights a week, but after being in the neighborhood for a while, will assess the possibility of serving lunch.
Oh, and If you have an allergy or a strong dislike and want to swap an ingredient, they'll do their best to accommodate. Also, if you don't like the starters and want two entrees and a dessert—or you have a serious sweet tooth and want an entree and two desserts—that's fine, too. (Substitution charges may apply.) A pasta course can be added for $10. "The only thing you cannot do is have more than four courses," Cole said. Look for the menu to be uploaded to the website daily.
The motto for Trestle is "return to a proper meal." Anyone who's plowed through 15 small plates only to have to go out for a milkshake afterward (true story) will nod silently at this. Portions will be hearty, Cole promises. He knows it's hard to, um, swallow the idea that they can deliver top-notch food at bargain prices. "People say all the time, 'What's the food quality?'" he said. "The food's tremendous. We buy the exact same products from the exact same purveyors we bought at Michael Mina. [But] you're obviously not going to get lamb chops and filet; you can't do that at that price point."
Photo: Geri Koeppel/Hoodline
Cole said the owners would rather create an exceptional experience for people without charging the sky-high prices, not that there's anything wrong with destination or expense-account restaurants. "I remember the first time I went to the French Laundry," Cole said, "I was that person. I still appreciate it." But, he added, he and his team "enjoy meeting people and taking care of people and putting a smile on their face."
When a place gets too fancy and expensive, he said, "you lose what I feel is the most important part of dining," which is the sheer fun and excitement of eating out. When you go out for a three-hour marathon $195 tasting menu, he said, "you start setting expectations and you start taking away fun." (Again, a silent nod.)
Trestle will be a cozy 49-seater with no room for a sit-down bar, but it'll offer an extensive beer and wine list, courtesy of Kirmse's expertise in beverages. Cole said they'll serve more than 20 food-friendly craft beers by the bottle from all over the world. Wines will be listed in two categories: under $50 and over $100.
Wines under $50 will be "more esoteric; globally inspired," Cole said. "The best bang for your buck." Wines over $100 will not be marked up more than $40 per bottle, so people can enjoy, say, a Grand Cru Burgundy for $190 instead of $400 or $500. (For true oenophiles, that's actually a bargain.) "We want that to be part of your experience," Cole said.
Also, because dinner is less expensive, patrons can splurge a bit on wine if they wish. If you're paying $200 or $300 for dinner, it might be tougher to loosen the purse strings for that $200 or $300 bottle of vino as well. Wines by the glass will be $9 and up.
The space will retain the historic ambiance of Jackson Square but with a modern feel, Cole said, thanks to architect Michael Baushke of Apparatus Architecture. The building used to house the Great Hunan Restaurant; it's 104 years old and was rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake and fires. During construction, they ripped out a drop ceiling to restore it to its former glory and also found exposed brick that had been charred in the fire. "This is brick, but it's black," Cole said. "We're sealing it so it doesn't go away."
The name comes from a word dating from the 1600s that means "dining table," according to Cole. "That was the structure and foundation of a great meal," he said.
